Make wooden picture frame out of solid Walnut

Hi, I’m John Peters, and today I’m going to show you how I make a custom walnut frame. What makes this project special is that I’ll not only craft the frame itself but also design and cut the molding using my molding planer.

Designing and Cutting the Molding

I use a Williams & Hussey molding planer for this project. The process begins with designing your molding and creating a scaled drawing with all measurements. You send the design to Williams & Hussey, and about a week later, they send you a custom cutting knife. This knife fits into the planer and is used to cut the molding.

Installing the knives is straightforward, but make sure the machine is unplugged during installation. Once installed, the planer is ready to shape your wood.

Preparing the Walnut Stock

Before cutting molding, I rough down all my wood to the correct size, ¾ inch wide by ¾ inch deep. This is also a great way to use leftover pieces of wood from past projects. For this frame, I used an old 8/4 walnut piece that had been sitting in my shop for years. I cut it into strips, ready for molding.

Making the Frame

With the molding ready, I start cutting pieces to fit my 5x7-inch paintings. I cut a slight miter on one side and trim the molding to a 7¼-inch inside measurement for an even reveal around the painting. Glue is applied to the end grain of each corner, and any excess is wiped away before it dries.

Adding Depth with Back Molding

To ensure the painting fits perfectly, I add a piece of poplar molding to the back of the frame. Using a rabbet cut on the table saw, I remove the necessary material and attach this molding so the painting sits just below the front bead. A simple trick is to use your fingernail as a guide to transfer lines for precise placement.

Finishing the Outer Molding

The final step in assembly is attaching a 3/8 inch by 1¾ inch piece of molding around the outside of the frame. I use quarter-inch plywood as a spacer to keep the reveal consistent all the way around. Pre-drilling with a countersink bit ensures clean screw placement. After sanding, the frame is ready for finishing.

Staining and Clear Coating

I stain the frames with Minwax walnut, diluted to avoid a dark finish. After letting the stain dry overnight, I apply three coats of clear lacquer straight from the spray can. For small projects like this, this method works perfectly.

Testing and Display

With the frames complete, I experiment with different paintings. These frames, made specifically for my encaustic transfers, also look great with other works. Flipping the frames can adjust for a 7x5 orientation versus 5x7, showing the versatility of the design.

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This project demonstrates how traditional frame-making techniques can enhance both the woodworking and art presentation experience. Stay tuned for my next video, where I’ll make a simple tabletop easel, perfect for displaying these frames without needing a molding planer.

Thanks for reading!